The English Lake District - A Walkers Guide to Helvellyn

From the A 591 about three quarters of a mile north of Grasmere an easy but steep path climbs grassy slopes to Grisedale Hause the pass leading over to Patterdale and Ullswater. Just beyond the summit of the pass, the track skirts around the right side of Grisedale Tarn before another path branches off to the left. The main path continues to Patterdale - a pleasant walk in itself but the left branch climbs a steep and loose slope in a series of zig zags to the summit of Dollywaggon Pike - yes the Lake District is full of curious names. Beyond Dollywaggon Pike the route heads northwards along a wide ridge which appears more like a plateau with an escarpment of cliffs falling down to the east. This is wonderful walking country as the way progresses over Nethermost Pike before the final easy rise to Helvellyn with its stone shelter at 3118 feet or 950 metres.

If we go about 3 miles further along the A 591 towards Keswick, another popular route leaves from Wythburn Church by Thirlmere - there is a car park on the right (as you head north). The Wythburn route is shorter and more direct but it is steep throughout most of its early stages. The path is good and joins the Grasmere route just before the summit. At under 5 miles return, the wythburn route is the shortest way to the summit of Helvellyn.

From the eastern side of the mountain the approaches are more interesting with views of the crags and rocky ridges that make up this aspect. From the beautiful village of Glenridding by the shores of Ullswater, a single track road leads up a valley to the Youth Hostel and site of an old mine - the road is for access only and you should park in the village. From the mine buildings the track climbs up out of the trees to a wide valley which it follows for perhaps just over a mile where a path heads up the slopes to the right. This path climbs steadily to the ridge between the summits of Raise and White Side.

The ridge is now followed in a more or less southerly direction over the broad grassy top of White Side and steeply up to the minor summit of Helvellyn Lower Man - itself a great viewpoint for the valley below. From here it is a short walk to Helvellyn's main summit. This route is an easy and very pleasant outing with some spectacular views and is a good choice if you would rather avoid the crowds that you can encounter on some of the more popular routes.

I have left the best until last here and the popularity of this next route is the only thing that is wrong with it. Striding Edge is a name that most walkers visiting the Lake District will be familiar with. Those who plan to it will think of the name with apprehension and those that have done it - with fondness.

From Patterdale just under a mile south of Glenridding another single track road leads off to the start of the path over Grisedale Hause mentioned in the first route. There is parking about half a mile along this road where a path leaves the route to Grasmere and climbs the steep slopes of Birkhouse Moor to the north of Grisedale. There are views up the fabulous Grisedale valley to the crags of Nethermost Pike at its head and the precipitous St Sunday Crag opposite while you ascend the path to the start of Striding Edge itself.

Striding Edge is the ridge to the south of Red Tarn which is visible after the initial ascent but the path is clear and there will usually be people to follow! Crossing the Edge is an exhilarating walk along a rock ridge with Grisedale below on the left and Red Tarn on the right. While there are a few exposed sections it is not difficult and you are able to walk rather than scramble your way along most of it. At the end where the route leaves the ridge and climbs up to Helvellyn there is a short scramble up about 20 feet of easy rock and then you're up.

The ridge to the north side of Red Tarn linking Helvellyn with the pointed peak of Catstycam is called Swirral Edge and makes a good route of descent taking you back to the Start of Striding Edge. The slightly easier Swirral Edge also makes a good route of ascent but it is easier to go up via Striding Edge rather than to descend it if you're doing a circular. This route should be avoided if it is icy or very windy but is safe in the mist - there's no problem route finding and you can't see the drops if it's foggy!

So there's a choice of a few ways up Helvellyn - generally the paths from the Ullswater side offer pleasanter hikes but whichever route you use, have a good day in the hills.

Pete Buckley is a regular visitor to the English Lake District and runs the mountain walking and outdoors photo blog Tales from the Hills For an account of a walk up Helvellyn please see the Lakeland Fells blog.

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