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We just got back from a fantastic trip to France and I fell in love with this lovely country all over again! We visited some wonderful UNESCO sites near Toulouse. One of my favorite visits was Albi. Located in south-central France about 50 miles northeast of Toulouse, is a quiet town of around 52,000 residents. Though less well-known to North American tourists than many other towns in southern France, Albi is steeped in Medieval history and makes an ideal day stop on a barge tour of the region. Albi, located on the Tarn River, has a strong Protestant (Anglican/Episcopal) history, although the majority of France is traditionally Catholic. The city, often referred to as the “Episcopal City,” is the seat of the Archbishop and Diocese of Albi and much of the town’s history centers around the church and Sainte-Cecile Cathedral. Many Medieval-era stone structures still stand today, lending the city a charming, historic air. The primary attraction in Albi is Sainte-Cecile Cathedral, an UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can’t miss the 13th century church, whose bell tower dominates the Albi landscape. The cathedral is outwardly more like a fortress than a church. Only when you enter the building do you see the rich 16-century paintings, the rood screen, and the unique lace of stones that enhance the “Last Judgement Day” paintings. The Gothic structure is said to be the largest brick building in the world. Adjacent to the cathedral is the former bishop’s palace (Palais de Berbie), also built in the 13th century, and now the site of the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. With new galleries that just opened in April of 2012, the museum is devoted to the work of the city’s favorite son, 19th-century artist Henri Toulouse-Lautrec. It is the largest public collection of his work anywhere in the world, with more than a thousand paintings, lithographs, drawings and posters by Lautrec on display. The core of the collection was donated in the 1920s by the artist’s relatives, the Count and Countess of Toulouse-Lautrec. Born in Albi in 1864, Henri Toulouse-Lautrec is best known for his scenes of “fin de siecle” Paris, particularly the Montmartre neighborhood. A contemporary of Van Gogh, Gauguin and Cezanne, Toulouse-Lautrec sought out the seemier (and yet more human) side of the city. His paintings and drawings often feature dance hall girls, prostitutes, tired drinkers and the loneliness surrounding “Gay Paree.” Born to an aristocratic family, Toulouse-Lautrec broke both of his legs as a youth and they failed to heal properly and stopped growing. As an adult, he had the upper body size of a man, but the legs of a child and stood only 5’1' tall. A heavy drinker, he died in Albi of the effects of alcoholism at age 37. He is buried just outside of Albi. June and July are the festival season in Albi. Every weekend during this period brings another celebration. In June, you’ll find the festival of Saint-Jean and the annual music fair. In July, the festivals include the annual theater festival; the Bastille Day celebration on July 14, complete with fireworks; the Tarot Festival and the Urban Festival, which is held in the Old Town and combines food, sports, music and technology. Other July attractions include afternoon history lectures in the cathedral and daily strolling musicians and entertainers who roam the Old Town streets. The first weekend of September brings Grand Prix auto racers to Albi, when the streets of downtown are transformed into a racing circuit. The following weekend is the annual Albi Antiques Fair, which boasts more than 90 vendors. In addition to the cathedral and the museum, the Old Town of Albi makes for an enjoyablewalking tour. The half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets and narrow passages reward pedestrians with beautiful vistas at almost every turn. Among the many architectural treasures in the Old Town are the “pont vieux” (one of the oldest bridges in France); the 16th century pastel merchant house, the Hotel Reynes (hotel refers to a townhouse in French); and the 13th-century clositers of Saint Salvery and their beautiful columns and triangular lawn. The neighborhood is especially lovely in the evening, when the waning sun casts shadows over the cathedral’s bell tower. Parks and green spaces abound in Albi. Among the most scenic are the hiking paths that line the Tarn River and snake through downtown Albi and the Old Town neighborhood. The markets of Albi are also worth a visit to the city. The town hosts a vegetable market Tuesday through Sunday year-round, a used book market on Wednesdays and an arts and crafts market every Saturday. Albi successfully combines history, art and great weather. The city is very walkable and has a vibrant and authentic air to it. Residents of Albi love to eat and they are not shy about sharing their food with visitors. The city boasts 70 restaurants, bistros and cafes. Among the highlights are La Temporalite, which is located between the cathedral and the museum and combined history with the flavors of southern France; le Clos Sainte-Cecile, located at the base of the bell tower and serving southern French cuisine in a converted schoolhouse; and Auberge du Pont Vieux, serving local foods in an historic building near the old bridge. Specialties of the region include cassoulet, the casserole of beans, bacon, pork, duck meat and onion. Seemingly, every restaurant has its own recipe and they are all delicious. Other favorites include olive tapenade and a flaky, apple tart. The region is also known for its olive oil, truffles, honey and wild mushrooms. The blog post was brought to you by The Barge Connection, which has been creating exciting barge vacations since 1998.
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