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Where there is a river that has a low alluvial plain is a “Temple of excellent abode.” The Wat Bovornives Vihara (officially called the Wat Bowon Niwet Wihan Ratchaworawihan) is sprawled within 31 rai (1 rai = 1600 sq. m.) in an urban setting with trees, open spaces, small canals, and buildings in European architecture. Its chedi (a mound-like structure containing Buddhist meditation relics) is glittered with gold-colored tiles, and towers more than 50 meters; a smaller one contains relics of the Buddha lie inside. It exhibits Buddha images, temple paraphernalia, skeletons, and books on cremation. The temple is a center of the Thammayut Nikaya, an order of Theravada Buddhist monks, and has been a major temple of patronage for the Chakri dynasty. There is a museum of the dhamma (teachings of the Buddha) in a tall building that is open every Sunday afternoon. There is a bookstore—the Mahamakut Bookstore—across the wat (temple) with Buddhist books in English. Wat Bovornives Vihara has had a long and glorious history. In it is where Prince Bhikku Mongkut became an abbot in 1836. The prince, who was the first Asian king who can speak English fluently, was a scholar in Pali Buddhism. When his half-brother, King Rama III, died, the prince was crowned King Rama IV. There had been five other abbots: Somdet Pra Maha Samana Chao Krom Phraya Pavares Variyalongkorn or Phra Ong Chao Rerk (1851-1892), Somdet Pra Maha Samana Chao Krom Phraya Vajiranyanavarorassa or Phra Ong Chao Manussanagmanop (1892-1921), Somdet Pra Sangharaj Chao Krom Luang Vajiranyanavongse or Mom Rajawong Chuen Nopavongse (1921-1958), and Phra Prommuni or Pin Suvaco (1958-1961). In 1956, his great grandson was ordained and resided in the wat for a period. That great grandson is the current king of Thailand, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Wat Bovornives Vihara is located at 248 Phra Sumen Road in Banglampoo district, some two blocks from the north wing of the Democracy Monument. There is actually no formal instruction on meditation offered here, but this temple is an important center for Buddhism as that religion is to Thailand. Wat Pak Nam Across the Chao Phraya River on its west is the Wat Paknam Bhasicharoen. Literally meaning a “monastery at the mouth of the river,” this temple could be reached by a long-tailed boat from Rajinee. One could also take a bus (No. 4, 9, or 103) to get here. Wat Pak Nam must be the best meditation in Thailand, judging from the number of foreigners that have stayed in the temple. The teachers can speak in English, and several monks can interpret. Crowds of worshippers would come here even on weekends and Buddhist holidays. They are led by Chao Khun Bhawana Kosol Thera, 72, P.K. Bhavananuwat, 77. The meditation system here begins by concentrating at the point where consciousness sits: on the center of the abdomen. Through the words "Samma Araham" repeated mentally, concentration will be developed. It was popularized by the late abbot Venerable Chao Khun Mongkol-Thepmuni (1884-1959), founder of the Dhammakaya method of meditation. Wat Pak Nam dates back to the early 18th century in the Ayutthaya Period. Its bot (ordination hall) and buildings are tightly packed on 17 rai (equivalent to 7 acres). It can accommodate 200-400 monks, 80-90 novices, 200-300 nuns, and up to 100 laypeople. It is not necessary to write in advance when coming for meditation here. Meditators can even practice individually or attend group sessions. Meals are offered every daybreak and every 11 o’ clock in the morning (laypeople just have to wait after the monks and novices are through). Monks and novices can go on pindabat (alms round) if they wish.
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