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Know Your Leathers by Ryan Camomile





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Know Your Leathers by
Article Posted: 01/24/2010
Article Views: 107
Articles Written: 373
Word Count: 850
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Know Your Leathers


 
Fashion & Cosmetics
There’s nothing like the feel of a fresh leather accessory, not to mention a coat or a vest. Stylish in any occasion, a casual leather wristband or leather bracelet can add a finishing touch to any outfit. There are many different types of leather, all of which add a different smell or feel that can put the wearer at ease. We’ll go through those types of leather and see what makes the best of each leather accessory.

We’ll start with the wonderful full-grain leather. Full-grain refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) in order to remove imperfections or natural marks on the surface of the hide. The grain remains in its natural state allowing the best fiber strength and durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact, thus resulting in less chance of this leather being ruined by exposure to moisture. The finest leather furniture and footwear are made from full-grain leather. For these reasons, only the best raw hide is used to create full-grain leather. A good way to test if leather is full-grain is to lightly scratch its surface with your nail. If it leaves a lighter-colored streak, it’s full-grain. Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.

Top-grain leather likes to give the impression that it is “top quality” leather. In fact, full-grain is the highest quality. Top-grain leather is the second-highest quality. Its surface has been sanded and refinished. As a result, it has a colder, plastic feel, less breathability, and will not develop natural patina or in other words, corrosion. However, it does have 2 advantages over full-grain leather: it is almost always less expensive, and has greater resistance to staining.

Now let us talk about corrected-grain leather. This means that the leather has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather are of inferior quality that does not meet the high standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected and an artificial grain applied. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.

Now split leather is created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. Split leather is also used to create suede. The strongest suede is usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is “fuzzy” on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. For example, in one operation, leather finish is applied to one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Latigo is one of the trade names for this product. Reversed suede is grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not a true form of suede.

These are different ways the leather is made, but let’s focus on how they give the different appearances to the various types of leather.

Patent leather has a very high –gloss finish, and usually has a plastic coating.

There is a very unique type of leather known as Shagreen. It is made from the skins of stingrays and has been used in furniture for centuries.

In regards to the leather that is commonly used in the trimmings of luggage and handbags we’re dealing with Vachetta leather. Susceptible to water and stains because left untreated, sunlight will cause Vachetta leather to darken in shade.

When you’re talking toughness, Deerskin is where you’ll look. Due to adaptations to their thorny and thicket filled habitats, Deerskin is resilient and can endure much more than your typical leather. Deerskin is used in jackets and overcoats, professional sporting equipment for martial arts such as kendo and bogu, as well as high-quality personal accessories like handbags and wallets. It is typically more expensive due to its rarity and proven durability.

Back in the day, the pulley belts in machinery were made of leather, a specific type of full-grain leather called Belting leather. Nowadays it is found on the surfaces of portfolios, wallets, and briefcases. It is identifiable by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Another unique quality of Belting leather is the fact that it can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame, the only kind of leather used in luxury products to do so.

Finally we’ll finish with Nappa leather. Known as the “Cadillac” of leathers to some, it can be found covering the seats of luxury vehicles across the world. Noted for its softness and durability; it is often used in high-quality leather products such as high-end furniture and accessories such as wallets and luggage.

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