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GALAPAGOS ISLANDS – IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF DARWIN: Struggling up the long dusty street next morning, a windowless, wooden coach is spied in the distance. Clambering aboard and settling sweatily on the generously varnished wooden seats, it is already 27 degrees Celsius – thoughts of a long hot day shimmer before them! Counting numbers on a thirty seater should not take too long, but it is close to an hour before the engine is coaxed coughing into life and they creak off, breathing in lungs full of diesel smoke, back drafted through the empty windows. The pale blue motor launch bobbing quietly at the dock looks workmanlike and ready to put to sea. It has a rather ornate stern railing, varnished bright of course, which looks out of place on a work boat. She motors out in the glorious morning sunshine and a sparkling sea. By this time there is a gentle sea breeze, deliciously cooling our crew so that the spectacular views can be all the more appreciated. Rounding the promontory she heads for the landing place. No dock or sea wall is visible and it appears that disembarkation is on to nothing more than a large flat rock. There is a surge running, so this operation looks like it may require some modicum of seamanship skills to successfully get the thirty or so tourists ashore. The boat is backed up to the rock, a crew member jumps with a rope, which he lashes to a large and rusty iron bar embedded in the rocks. What he doesn’t see is that the shipboard crew member has the other end of the line bent on to a cleat with the running end passing through the intricately carved and varnished balusters. With the next surge, the woven rope tightens. With the stern swinging, water squirting from the taut and twanging line, the rat a tat tat of splintering woodwork is clearly heard above the surf as ten or more balusters snap like matchsticks - the rope knifing through them, splinters exploding in a thousand directions. Fortunately, no unsuspecting tourists legs are in the path of the line as they would snap just as easily. Our crew smother sniggers, coming out as coughs and snorts, but as fellow sailors, they sympathise with the unfortunate fellow on board who is yet to receive the wrath of his skipper. Turning their backs on the ensuing dressing down, our crew bounding ashore, actually step right over a large sea lion nestling at the foot of the rock. This sets the scene for the next few hours of a lifetime experience with the native and wild fauna of these islands. Following a narrow winding path through knee high scrub, they eventually come to the top of the rise, and spread out before them is a most fantastic sight. A multitude of wild life is staring right back at them. ‘Wild’ seems a little extreme, as all creatures just carry on with what they are doing and barely take notice of their visitors, aside from a cursory inspection as they first come into view. Gulls are nesting next to Boobys, both the blue and red footed variety, frigate birds in the bushes, a wide range of seabirds floating overhead along with the female frigate birds, iguanas and various lizards scuttling back and forth, altogether like one very, very large family. Over the top and down toward the sea on the other side, this blend continues and as the waters’ edge nears, seals, sea lions and the marine iguanas are added into the mix – a natural sight almost beyond words to describe. It is the mating season and some Boobys put on a wonderfully comic display of their mating dance. Slowly circling one another, flapping their rather large red or blue feet at one another as they go, moving ever closer, until they come together, rapturously rubbing their puffed chests. This is obviously highly erotic for them as they finish in a very cosy cuddle, necks entwined. The frigate bird takes a different approach. The male builds the most untidy nest of sticks in an equally scruffy looking bush and then sits in it. Raising his long beaked head skyward, inflating his big red throat balloon(only the males have this), he stares eagerly into the blue hoping to attract one of the high circling females. Our crew, watching the process for quite some time without result, have their doubts as to the effectiveness of this pursuit and the two thirds male crew certainly find it difficult to understand why any male would go to such lengths. Who’s ever heard of building a house first and then standing on the front porch waving an appendage at every passing female! Sibling crew treats these coarse remarks with a disdainful toss of her head, muttering something about the male gene pool being closely related to pigs! In a light offshore breeze, the crystal waves of this gently sloping sandy beach stand up very nicely. With the early afternoon sun just behind them now, the breakers are window clear and suddenly, there are eight or nine dolphins surfing along these rollers, gambolling out and into the face of the wave with absolute precision. The slightest movement of their flippers or tail, produces a marked change in direction or action, so they can hold their position perfectly in the barrel for as long as they wish, run out of water, or become bored with the game. This amusement appears to be for the spectators benefit with several of them almost running up onto the rock strewn beach, grinning, before bearing away in a long carving turn for another run – what a delight. A couple of seals join in the fun and whilst impressive, do not have quite the same manoeuvrability and finesse as their speedier cousins. The human mind can only observe, absorb and appreciate so much at any one time, so, after a short swim and with our crew going into mental overload, the tour party heads back to the boat, coach, and dusty, but happy journey home. Tomorrow is another day when a visit to the famous and fabulous Galapagos tortoises is planned. Extract from the ebook ‘Voyage of the Little ‘Ship Tere Moana’ by Vincent Bossley which can be downloaded from his sailboat2adventure website website for Sailors Vincent Bossley is a sailor and publisher living on the Northern Beaches in Sydney. He has his own website on www.sailboat2adventure.com for cruising sailors, sailors preparing for their lifetime sailing adventure, armchair sailors, virtual sailors and anyone who has ever dreamed of sailing off into the oceans of this beautiful planet of ours. He offers a package of extremely useful dollar saving tips that could save the voyager many hundreds of dollars and more, plus a FREE one hundred and thirty five page ebook download ‘Voyage of the Little Ship ‘Tere Moana’, of his sailing adventures in many of the exotic paradises around the globe. You can visit him anytime on www.sailboat2adventure.com
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