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Brunello di Montalcino is one of the great red wines of the world. The first wine to be granted DOCG status (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in Italy in 1980 it comes from a small area surrounding the hilltop town of Montalcino in southern Tuscany. Wine has been made in Montalcino with recorded finds dating back to Etruscan times around 500 BC. However the wine now known as Brunello di Montalcino has far more recent origins. In 1888 Feruccio Biondi Santi used a clone of sangiovese, sangiovese grosso, that his grandfather, Clemente, had developed and produced the first Brunello di Montalcino Over 120 years later Biondi-Santi’s outstanding Brunellos are best known for their incredible ability to age and this is true of sangiovese in general from this area. From its beginnings in 1880 there were only 11 producers making Brunello in 1960. By 1970 the number of producers had more than doubled to 25, and by 1980 there were 53 producers. By the turn of the 21st century, there were nearly 200 producers of Brunello di Montalcino, mostly small farmers and family estates. It is the most arid Tuscan DOCG, receiving an average annual rainfall of around 700 mm, in contrast to the Chianti region which receives an average of 900 mm. As with all of the Northern Hemisphere, the northern slopes receive fewer hours of sunlight and are generally cooler than the southern slopes. Vineyards planted on the northern slopes ripen more slowly and tend to produce wines that are racier and more aromatic. Vineyards on the southern and western slopes receive more intense exposure to sunlight and more maritime winds which produces wines with more power and complexity. The top producers in the area have vineyards on both slopes, and make use of a blend of both styles. Vineyards in Montalcino are planted in varied soils-including limestone, clay, schist, volcanic soil and a crumbly marl known as galestro, at altitudes ranging from 149 m to 500 m. This diversity in terroir contributes to the vast range in quality and potential complexity of Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello di Montalcino is made 100% from Sangiovese grosso. Traditionally, the wine goes through an extended maceration period where color and flavor are extracted from the skins. Following fermentation the wine is then aged in oak. Traditionally, the wines are aged 3 years or more "in botte"-large Slavonian oak casks that impart little oak flavor and generally produce more austere wines. Some winemakers will use small French barrique which impart a more pronounced vanilla oak flavor. There is a middle ground where the wine is aged in small barrique for a short time and then spends a longer sojourn in the traditional botte. Most producers will separate their production between a normale and riserva bottling. The normale bottles are released on the market in the fifth year after harvest and the riserva are released a year later. The current aging requirements were established in 1998 and dictate that Brunellos are to be aged in oak for at least 2 years and at least 4 months in a bottle before release. Irrigation is not permitted asnd wines are rigorously tested by the authorities prior to approval to release. Great recent vintages have been 2004, 2006, 2007 and most recently 2010. For great Italian wines go to www.italianwineimporters.com.au
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